RYAN’S TABLE BY Ryan Tatsumoto

I sampled the cuisine of Chef Ed Kenney for the first time about 12 years ago, just after he had opened his first restaurant, Town, at Wai‘alae and 9th avenues in the heart of Kaimukï. The occasion was a wine dinner for about a dozen diners. Chef Kenney had graciously allowed us to bring in our own bottles of wine.

I first sampled his platter of mixed and unique frites, the French word for batter-coated fried items at that event. However, unlike the usual calamari fare, Chef’s frite platter featured fried long beans, thinly sliced cauliflower and lemon — the lemon with the peel. The acidity of the lemon, along with the slight bitterness of the pith, cut through the fried batter and refreshed my palate between bites. It’s one of my favorite food memories.

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